Gamepad

Here's a small preview of how a may run my Logitech Gamepad.
The pic does'nt show all the buttons and with code I can make each
button do something different by holding another button down.
I'll figure it out as I write the code.

Video of Phidgets

The video is pretty bad quality and I shake quiet allot.
But it will show you how the program works and the servos
are controlled by my Logitech Gamepad.
I still have a long way to go with the code and more parts
to order. When I have everything going, This is how it should
turn out:
Driving R2
Moving all doors and accessories on R2
Sound with volume control
Video
Etc.
The gamepad combined with the program will allow me to
combine buttons, So running out of remote buttons is not
likely to happen.
The Gamepad is also locked to the droid, So interference
has less chance of happening. After R2 has received this
1st setup, I may look at adding my Webcam as I originally
planned, Then I can get a upfront view of what R2 sees.
All this will take a long time to program, But I think it
will be worth the struggle in the end.
More to come.

Happy Day!!!!!

This is a huge jump for me and the code I've been working on lately.
I have worked the code down to a small package and it works everytime.
All I need to do now is add more button code to the program and I'll be able
to control R2 with my gamepad. I also noticed today the gamepad has
an auto off feature built in and when I'm not driving R2 around it will shut down
and conserve the battery in the gamepad. When you need the pad again it is
really fast about restarting.
If anyone wants a copy of the code I'm working on just ask and I'll send it
to you.

Small Update

I'm still working on C# and it is quite a lot to learn.
I've been getting help from Indy, Alex and Adren.
Indy was able to write a code that can be placed within
a code that you have written. Although my attempt has failed
time after time, I'm still working at it.
Indy intergrated his code and Alex's code and I can work
2 servo's with my Gamepad using this code.
And it's amazing to see how precise and acurate the setup is working.
The Phidgets are a more expensive way to get everything moving,
But if 1 Phidget controller goes down I won't lose everything
at 1 time. So it does have some benefits.
SeeYa Later.

1st Phidget

While studying my Visual Basic, The postman brought my 1st Phidget home.
It's pretty small and controls 4 Servos through a computer.
All though there are boards out there now that control many more
servo than the Phidget, I plan to stay with Phidgets.
This board I will use to control my 2 large skin doors and the
CPU arm and what ever I put in the other door.
More to come.

Learning Curve

I'm slowly studying Visual C# and playing around with Microsoft Robotics.
I got the M.R. working with my Logitech remote and hope to get more working soon.
I'm going to order the Phidgets 4 Servo controller this weekend and see if I can
get the M.R. to control the servos through the Phidget.
If all goes well, Hopefully oneday R2 will run on his onboard computer.

Dome Motor Working

In this video you can see the small motor turning the dome without
any problems.
Now I only have the motor taped into place and you can see me walking
around R2 to help hold the motor in place. I ran the mess out of the
little motor, spun it around - jerked it back and fourth to see if
I could damage the motor somehow. But it took the stress and didn't even
start to get hot. You can hear a small whine as the motor reaches full speed.
Now I don't know if the Pittman motor makes any noise at all, So I can't
compare the 2 motors. Also you will hear it slipping on the dome bearing,
But mounted correctly that will not be a problem.
In all, I think the motor will be a good choice as a dome motor.
It may not work in all cases as the domes can get pretty heavy,
But all I'm missing in my dome is the Periscope and some other
small items and it works fine.

Dome Motor

Here's the type of motor I plan to use for my dome drive.
You can get them here: Super Droids
Now these may not be as fast as the other motors, But I just got mine in the mail and they are quite and strong. The only thing I did notice is a small amount of slop in the gear when it starts up, But I'm hitting it with full 12v. so it just takes off.
I did'nt want the motor hanging down in the chest area of R2 and my A&A frame
has a perfect spot to mount the motor.
Just need to make a mounting bracket and I'm good to go.
This maybe the motor I use for the Periscope lifter.
I don't know if I will need this speed or a slower one.

Remote Thoughts

Back when I started my R2, I had planned to use Phidgets
The reason I changed to Vex was due to price and not needing an on board computer.
But, Since Intel now has a Micro ITX board with a reasonable price I'm going back to my 1st plan.
Using this board will allow me to have Video, Sound, and use a Logitech Wireless Gamepad instead of the Vex remote. The gamepad has more buttons and the software will allow me to combine buttons for more features.
The code learning will take me awhile to get it figured out, But the forum for Phidgets has allot of helpful information.
The Vex Micro in my dome will remain as it helps control the servos in this area
and can be controlled by the Ebay 12ch remote.
I'm back to researching options for this setup, But so far I'm not even scratching the surface of what can be done with a computer on board.

Dome Buttons

I had Brenda paint my dome buttons today. I know they're suppose to be all blue,
But these buttons have a blue light around the edge of the center and I like them this way. There's also 1 button on the top of the dome and it's painted the same way.
Still not sure what I'll use thes for, But they're there if I need them.

Weathering Comparison

Here's a comparison of a weathered R2 and my R2. As you can see in the pics the detail panels show up much better than mine shows. I'm thinking more and more about this and I really like the dirty look. And with mine in the sunlight, You can't see the details at all.

General Update Video

This video is just to show how my R2 is slowly coming together. I still have along way to go. But if I can get the skirt, feet and a few details finished then I can finally start wiring. And yes this is my Junk room. I know it looks terrible, But working on R2 you can make a mess easily.

A&A Leg Mount Upgrade

I didn't like the A&A mount for the legs.

It seemed weak and it was made for the 2-3-2

motion. So I took some aluminum plate and added some angle to the top where it bolts to the top frame ring.

This will give me a strong mount and also I have the holes set for 3 legs.

I've tested it on the other leg and it's much easier to mount the legs and it feels allot stronger.

Since I made my legs from wood, I had to adjust each leg for the correct tilt of the body.

More Door Work

These are the magnets I plan to use on the rear door.

They fit the aluminum channel, 1 will be on the inside of the channel and the other will be recessed into the door frame.

You can see in the pic how the aluminum channel adds a nice frame for the door opening. If I would have had 2 long channels I would have run it from top to bottom, But I only had some scraps and had to splice the bottom.

And the other pic shows the inside how the door and the channel comes together. This aligns the door every time it's put on the droid.

Rear Door

I started on the DREADED door!!!

I really don't like this door, But you have to have it to gain access to the electronics in R2.

The A&A frame comes with the door hinged by a threaded rod, But it doesn't work that good.

So I started framing the skins to allow the door to slide into place and I'll add magnets to the door frame and the new skin frame to hold it in place.

As you can see I ran out of aluminum near the bottom of the skin.

I'll have to buy some more and finish this later.

More Painting

Everything turned out pretty good except for the Horseshoe. It's not bad, But right around the edges of the silver area there is some rough showing.

I'll touch it up as soon as it dries.

Once all these parts dry, I'll put them back together and get R2 back on his feet.

Weathering

I'm not ready to make a decision, But I'm thinking more about weathering my R2.
It's not because I did a crappy job on the painting or on the assembly, It's just because
I had the skins out in the sunlight and even though the paint is a Satin finish it's just too bright.
You can't see the details on the skins and it kinda blinds you from the light.
If I do the weathering, It will be lightly done not a heavy coat.
I will have to learn more about the process and since my dome is shinny, I don't know how
I'll do the weathering to it.
So, Guys I really need help on this one.

The Other Leg

I used Glazing Putty to cover any little cracks around the edges of the

Polystyrene on the leg. After this I sanded it down and gave it the 1st coat of primer. This will show me any bad spots I need to fix. Tomorrow, I'll be able to sand the leg and hopefully paint it Satin White.

Rear Skins Painted

I got the rear skin painted today and you can see I painted the inside like I did the front skin.

Now I know the inside doesn't look all that great, But I just wanted to cover all that bare aluminum. The camera makes the skins look shinny, But it's a Satin finish.

Rear Skin Work

I finished my rear Pocket Vent today. I had the paint allready complete, Just had to add the deep channel to the bottom and I bonded 1 of the rear doors. Once I get the other door mounted, I will repaint the rear skin and it will be complete.