Scrubber Work

We located the side buttons which Doug O. told me about and I cut a 3mm sheet
of styrene to cover the top for a smooth finish.
After the top dries I will smooth the edges and start working on the goodies
that sit on top.

Scrubber Drive

Since I have so much Vex goodies left over, I'm working with it to make the drive system for the Scrubber.
I need to get 2 small casters for the rear and it will drive easily.
I didn't make it very fast, Just a good speed so kids can drive this when
I'm here and there.
I hope to get the lights and other goodies working and controlled by the Vex.

New Project

After removing the letters from this area, The panels are glued into place.
Later the aluminum will be covered with a silver tape so all the parts are the same
color.

These aluminum panels are leftovers from my R2 skins and they fit perfect.
I'm glad I'm a PACK RAT :o)

Yeah I know everyone knows what this will be used for, SCRUBBER DROID!!!!!
I've been wanting to build one and right now I need a break from R2.

MegaCon 09

Here's all the pics and videos we took at the show.
MegaCon

MegaCon is Over :o(

This is how you feel after the event is over.
It drains you dry.


Here's a pic of how we got our droids to MegaCon.
As we drove down the road to the show, People were driving beside my truck
and taking pictures and video. It was alot of fun watching the faces.

Just to say THANKS!!!!

I just wanted to Thank Jim & Yvonne for inviting us to MegaCon with the group.
This has been the most fun we've had in a long time.
Keith & Carolynn were there to put up with us again.
Doug with his R2 and as usual, Helped me solve some of my drive problems.
Jerry C. with his ideas for Brenda's R3.
Brad was so funny and kept the party going.
Aaron & Cassey for giving R2 a body guard.
Mark with his unusal goodies.
Trent and his happy attitude and others where there also.

I hope to have more goodies for MegaCon next year and I can't
wait to be there again.
I'll post some more pics soon.

MegaCon Sunday

Well Sunday was a different story for R2.
Seems like R2 was getting alittle moody and started showing off.
After trying to run over Aaron and chasing some of the other droids,
He decided to take on the Umbrella soldiers.
This was a big mistake and I got the photo to prove he was getting
too big for his britches.

MegaCon Video

Here's a small video of the area where the droids were setup. Brenda has some more Video on her blog. We took alot of video and pictures and I'll post them soon. Some of the video was taken with our camcorder and I'll have to find a way to transfer them to our blogs.

MegaCon Saturday

Getting my R2 driver lesson in a live audience.
I did Ok and I didn't run over anyone, But I almost ran over Aaron.
He was my spot man and R2 took off and almost got him in the foot.
Sorry Aaron :o)


The Trooper on the right is a fellow I know from my local Hobby shop.
I didn't know it was him until after the picture was taken and he removed
his helmet.






R2 was having a ball meeting all kinds of characters and he behaved like a good droid
should around so many people.

MegaCon Setup

Well, We made the trip to MegaCon without any problems :o)
Here's some pics from the 1st day of setting up for the show.
There will be many more pics as the event goes forward.
Some pics will be here on my blog and some will be posted on
Brenda's blog.
More to come!!!!!

Welcome to R2 in the Box

He's all mounted and ready for MegaCon!!!
Now as long as the box holds up we will actually be ready for the trip.

Finished Boxes

The boxes are complete, Well as far as they go for now.
We replaced the back door with 3/4 particle board and it's strong enough
to run the droids on it as a ramp.
We put the eyelets in the bottom to strap the droids in place and we have some
wood cut to stop the wheels from rolling.
The boxes are not weatherproof, But they will protect the droids.

Plexi Installed

The plexiglass worked out pretty nice.
We also added a aluminum safety band around the sides just incase R2
tries to run away.
The plywood door/ramp on the back I'm not happy with and will change it
this weekend.

Da Ding Dang BOX!!!!

We got the plexiglass today and we'll get it installed soon.
We also tested the box and loaded it with 150 pounds.
The box itself held up GREAT!!!!, But the Ding Dang eyelets
are giving. CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I knew this would be my weak spot.
At 150 lbs they are pulling in slightly, But my droid doesn't weigh
this much so I think for the MegaCon trip it will be OK.
After the trip I'll change out the 5/16 rods for 1/2 rods with 1/2 eyelets.
I just can't spend anymore time on this project

Now It's Da Boxes

Yep, I got 2 standing now and I installed the top in 1 of them.
The Plexiglass is ordered and I'll pick it up tomorrow.
We also found some cable at the shop, So we'll make our own lift cables.
WORK, WORK, WORK, That's all I have time for now.
SOMEBODY HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!

More on Da Box

All 4 threaded rods are installed and the bolts are countersunk.
We also attached the eyelets to the top for lifting onto the truck.
I hate to say it, But if anything fails on this box it will be the eyelets.
The threaded rods are 5/16 and the eyelets are too, But I'm just not sure if that's enough.
We also got it mounted on the 3" caster today.
Tomorrow if the rain stops, We can cut the top and start on the other box.
Monday, I will get the cables and I'm going to call about the Plexi for the side panels.

Shipping box

I mounted the floor in the box today and got some of the bolts countersunk.
It's made from 3/4 particle board and is very strong.
Under the floor I will mount another 3/4 plate where the casters will mount
and this will give more than enough strength for the casters.

I didn't notice but my aluminum channel is 2x2 instead of 1-1/2.
Now you would think I would have noticed this ;o)
I need to get some more bolts and the threaded rods for the corners.
The only thing I'm not sure how to make is the cable lift for the top.
I need to find out, How you attach 4 cables to a eyelet so the crane will
have something to hook.

Ewok Captuered!!!!!!

Started building 2 R2 shipping boxes for the MegaCon vacation
and look what I caught, A LOOSE EWOK!!!!!!
And the trap was'nt even finished :o)

The aluminum rails are 1-1/2 rails and the box measures
31 x 33 x 48. All we need now is the threaded rod for each corner
and to countersink all the bolts.
Once this is finished I can add the sides, bottom and top.
The threaded rods will go from top to bottom and out the top will
be 4 eyelets for a cable system.

Once the box is finished, I'll put the Ewok in the box and see how
the crane lifts the box onto my truck.
More to come.

Porch Testing

I took R2 on the front porch today and drove him around some.
His foot motors are wired for 12v. and they are working GREAT!!!!
I was also testing the range on the PS2 controller and it was
pretty good, Since the receiver is inside R2's aluminum body.
Seems like the maximum range is around 40 feet.
Now that's from my porch, out of my front yard (15 feet)
across the street (15 feet) and about 10 feet into the neighbors yard.
If I held the remote up high, I could regain a signal.
That's not bad for a cheap PS2 controller and I never intend to get
that far away from him while driving. :o)
With the Cheap Controller (C6C)
and a Sabertooth Motor controller
I don't think you can go wrong with the price of both parts.
I'll post a video of R2 in the street when I get a few more things completed,
He's not ready for any real exercise yet.

12v. vs 24v.

I've been trying to run my scooter motors on 24v., Which they
are designed to run.
But the power is just too much.
I'm going to try running them on 12v. which responds and moves much
better too me.
I'm going to order 2- 12v. 22amp batteries after the holidays and wire
them for 12v.
These batts should give me enough run time even though it will be 12v.
I have some emails out concerning the motors.
I don't want to damage the motors are run them too hot, So when the emails
return I'll let everyone know what I've learned.

Rear Logic Complete

I finally got that ding-dang rear logic working.
The wiring process is what kept throwing me off.
So, If anyone needs to wire this thing through the 24v. converter
here's how it wires:

Run the 12v. neg./pos. from the 12v. Batt. to the Pic Flasher.
Run a 2 jumpers from the Flasher pos/neg to the 24v. input on
the converter neg/pos. This will supply the power for both items.
Run a 24v. pos. wire from the output of the converter to the rear logic.
The output 24v. neg. on the converter is not used.
And believe it or not it works.

Everyone was telling me how to wire Leon's rear logic, But it was not working
for me.
And after I burnt up the rectifier on the pic flasher, I tried my own setup.
I'm glad this is over, It was a pain :o)

Voltage Regulator

My regulator arrived today.
This will convert 12v. to 24v. for Leon's rear logic display.
The regulator is adjustable so I will need a better Multimeter
to get the voltage correct.
Since I always give credit where it's do, This is one of Chris James
idea.
The regulator can be purchased on Ebay and it ships from China.

Dome Side Light

Before anyone ask me, I have no idea what this light is called :o)
If anyone knows the name, Please let me know.
In the movie at the cave with the Ewoks, R2 gets zapped by one of the
Storm Troopers and goes CRAZY. As the dome turns you will see this red light
flashing.
I had planned to place a small LCD screen in this area so it would flash red
and if you push one of the dome buttons it would show pictures and video.
That will have to come later.
These two pics show the light off/on. When it's off the panel is like a mirror
and you can't see inside the dome. The pics are kinda crappy, But you get the idea.
And the LEDs don't show that bad in person, The camera makes them really show up.

More Wiring

I did some more wiring today and installed 2 main power switches.
The switches are setup as: 1 for 12v. and 1 for 24v.
We put the 2 switches inside one of the large doors for easy access.
The only thing left is to run the wires inside the legs and I'm hunting a
good master connector for the charge plug, speakers and the flashing red lights
in the front skin. The master connector will allow me to remove the front skin
and unplug 1 master instead of a lot of small connectors.
Everything is run through the fuse box and I'll experiment with different size fuses
to see what will be the correct size for each item.

Door Magnets

I added magnets to the rest of the doors and everything looks good except 1 door.
I noticed when I cut the doors open from the original aluminum skins, The aluminum
seems to have a little tension on it when you cut the parts apart.
So this door doesn't want to close completely. Maybe the servo will keep it tighter
when I get to this part.

Anyway, Here's where I stand in the build.
Once he's complete, I'll dirty him up to look like the Empire Strikes Back R2.

One More Video

I put a set of 12v. 10amp batteries in a 24v. configuration and what a power difference. He was so strong I had to reset the C6C and the Sabertooth to get a smoother start. Setting the C6C can be alittle odd since all settings are set by pushing different buttons on the PS2 controller.
Hey, The table got run over once and I got run over 3 times. And believe me, R2 has quite a bit of strength and started pushing me around pretty good :o)

Now that the settings are correct, I've got to get the ankles locked and get a few things done. Hopefully by Sunday, I'll be able to get him to the street and do
some more testing.

Anyone useing the C6C, I suggest you read the manual or you'll get run over
like me and the table!!!

Added More Wiring

I added the Voltage regulator into my system for the C6C to obtain
power from my 12v. batteries. You can buy these at Walmart for $10.00
and it has a switch which allows you to select the votage you need.
I set mine to 7.5 volts. I have one of these in my dome to power the Vex
Micro and it works fine.
I also picked up a Pelican wireless Ps2 remote and it works Great.
So far range tested on the remote is 40 feet, More than enough.

Once all is wired, I plan to add two main switches to the system.
One for the 12v. and one for the 24v.
I will also add some relays to switch between charging and run time.
More to come :o)

2nd Test Video

Ok, Here's a short video of R2 moving with both feet.
It's not much But I don't have much room in my junk room to move around and the wires
are hanging all over the back of him right now.

I still need to work on the controlls as it's still alittle touchy on the remote.
I've got to lock the outter ankles in place because they want to jump as I aply
power.
I'm running for now 1- 12v. 4.5amp battery for both feet.
I'll get the other batteries ready today.

1st Test

I did a little test to see if my wiring was going to be OK and in
the pic you can see I've got one foot motor connected to a small
12v. 4.5amp battery.
As soon as I gave R2 a little juice from the PS2 controller he jumped and turned
to the right. Which is what I was hoping would happen.

One thing I did notice, The C6C has a adjustable throttle and it needs to be turned down. And this is possible with this little board.
I have more wiring to do and still have work to do on 1 of the legs,
But maybe soon I'll be able to take him for a spin.
I have some large 24v. Scooters and I'm going to borrow the batteries from them,
So I can give R2 a fair amount of power for the test run.

Electronic Locations

I started installing the motor drivers and the C6C.
1st, I cut another piece of Plexiglas as a base for everything to mount
and tried to set the parts in the best spot.
I need some more white wire clips and some other goodies, But at least it's started.

More Goodies

These 2 pics show the C6C (PS2 Controller) that I plan to use to control R2's
feet, Dome and Utility Arms. I've ran the controller for a few hours on the dome to
see if it can handle use for a long period of time. And it seems to be up to the job.

The Sabertooth 2x25 amp controller came in today.
I will use this to run the 24v. foot motors and I have a Syren 10 to run the dome motor.
If all goes well and I'm lucky, I may have R2 ready for a test run this weekend.
I still have to order the 2- 12v. 20 amp batteries that I have made room for in R2.
These should supply more than enough power to run the feet.
I have 2- 12v. 4.5 amp batts that will supply power for the small stuff.

Crazy Days!!!!!

I knew this day would come and I was not looking forward to it.
R2 from the Ankles up is basically finished, There is a couple of details that
need paint but I'll do it later.

When I started the build, Everything was done in a temporary mode.
As things changed and more functions were added it didn't make seance to
make everything permanent.
So, Today I started tearing him apart a piece at a time and making everything
fit. It took all day to rework 1 leg. All the bolts were added and I changed allot of screws to Allen head bolts.
I also drilled the outer ankle for the wiring to pass through to the foot.
I made a aluminum plate to put under the shoulder hub to bolt my wood outer legs
to the frame. The plate adds allot of strength to this area and I'm positive now the leg won't give in a strain.
Tomorrow, I'll start on the other leg and do the same process.

Even though I have an A&A frame, I have added many different modifications to the frame and used aluminum for these mods. I have never glued the frame and still will never glue it, So future gadgets can be added.
I have screws in all the weak spots I could find on the frame.
Some people claim the frame is too weak for a fully loaded R2, But I disagree.
Mine doesn't give in the joints, It doesn't squeak like some people claim.
More to Come :o)

Skirt Update

I mounted my skirt to see if the screws in the center ankle would show and only the bottom 2 can be seen if you look from the bottom.
I haven't seen the painted skirt mounted until now and it looks funny to me.
I guess I'm use to the flat bottom.

I still have alot of work to get done before MegaCon and I hope I get it finished.
The skirts on the feet, Finishing the battery boxes, Painting the rear door
and alot of small details here and there must be completed.

We ordered the Sabertooth motor controller for the foot motors and I have the Cheap PS2 controller, So it will be wiring time soon.
For MegaCon, I'm going to wire the basics. Feet, Dome and lighting.

General Update

I got the center foot set and it's level with the outter feet.
Both casters in the center foot are touching the floor and R2 seems to be very easy to push around.
I still have allot of work ahead and really need to start finishing up.
Well, Not much to post but a small update.

Wheel Setting

Here's some pics of what I worked on today.
I managed to get the feet on and get some idea of what I need to do to get everything aligned.
The plastic sheets under the center foot allowed me to get a measurement of how far I need to move the casters down.
Right now you can see the A&A foot motor holder is off balance, But once I get everything set I'll pin it in place.
And you can see now R2 is taller, Due to the large pneumatic wheels.
Once the feet are set I'll know how much the skirt on the bottom of the feet will hide much of the wheels.

Cheap Skin Fasteners

I found these a Lowe's and they work GREAT!!!
They are Variable Depth GM Push Fasteners and they're only $.80 for two.
All I did was drill a hole through the skin and a slightly smaller hole
in the A&A frame where I had added more PVC to the frame making the frame thicker.
Now all I have to do is pop the skin on with the fastener.
I'll paint them white so they don't show much.

More Center Foot

From bottom to top pics.
I had allready cut the Jag flange off the bottom of the foot.
And now I'm building the new skirt for the foot.
I used a 1 inch wide steel plate and this will leave me with a 1/2 inch
reveal around the bottom of the foot. I really wanted a 3/4 inch skirt,
But it looks funny so I'm staying with 1/2 inch.
Once I get the front/back cut, I may stop by and have it spot welded to the foot.
I could used J.B. Weld, But I really want it to be strong.

Center Ankle Work

Ok, I've done something I'm NOT really proud of, But I needed a solution for this problem.
My center leg is made from square aluminum tubing and the standard Ankle mount would not work for me.
In the pic you can see inside the Ankle and the square plates I added inside will cup the aluminum leg very tightly. I plan to add a slot in the plates so a fixed bolt in the leg will slide down into the plates and allow me to tighten the plates to the leg. It's hard to describe so I'll post more pics later.

The other pic shows the screws on the outside. Yeah I know what it looks like :o(
I'll countersink the screws and paint them white so they don't show as much.
Most of the screws will be up in the skirt and will not be seen, But I think the bottom 2 screws may show up.